Kathmandu is really two cities: a fabled capital of convivial pilgrims and carved rose-brick temples, and a splenetic sprawl smothered in dirt, monkeys, beggars and the pollution of diesel fumes. It simultaneously reeks of history and the wear and tear of increasing modernity. Warning While most of the violence associated with the Maoist uprising has taken place in rural areas, Kathmandu has also become more dangerous. The capital is periodically shuttered by Maoist-led national strikes, which fearful shopkeepers comply with for fear of retaliation. The rebels have become more sophisticated in their attacks, targeting communications, transport and economic centres. They have also threatened tourist facilities throughout Nepal, and Maoist leader Baburam Bhattarai warned travellers that they could be 'caught in the crossfire of the contending armies', while perversely encouraging them to visit anyway. Travellers to Kathmandu are urged to remain vigilant, keep a low profile and avoid demonstrations. Area: 230 sq km Population: 700,000 Country: Nepal Time Zone: GMT/UTC +5.75 Telephone Area Code: 1 Orientation Kathmandu sits slightly south-east of Nepal's centre. The city is encircled by the Ring Rd, with the main bus station in the north and Tribhuvan international airport to the east. Most travellers head to the old city of Kathmandu, between the Vishnumati River and Kantipath, the main north-south road. Durbar Sqare, home to the old Royal Palace and the centre of the old town, lies between the river and Kantipath on Ganga Path, the city's busiest road. To its south is Freak Street, once the centre of hippy Kathmandu but now a bit of a backwater. Thamel, the new tourist epicentre, is about 20 minutes walk north of Durbar Square. This is the spot to find accommodation, food, phone services, trekking gear, bookshops and internet cafes. When to Go October-November, the start of the dry season, is in many ways the best time of year: the weather is balmy, the air is clean, visibility is perfect and the country is lush following the monsoon. February-April, the tail end of the dry season is the second-best period: visibility is not so good because of dust, but the weather is warm and many of Nepal's wonderful wild flowers are in bloom. In December and January, the climate and visibility are good but it can be chilly: cheaper hotels in Kathmandu - where heating is nonexistent - can be gloomy in the evening. The rest of the year is fairly unpleasant for travelling: May and early June are generally too hot and dusty for comfort, and the monsoon from mid-June to September obscures the mountains in cloud and turns trails and roads to mud. Attractions Durbar Square Very much the centre of old Kathmandu, Durbar Square is a huddle of temples and shrines, with intricately carved roofs, doors and windows. Many buildings are ancient, having survived the great earthquake of 1933; others have been completely rebuilt, not always in their original form. A good place to begin exploring is the unprepossessing Kasthamandap, purportedly the oldest building in the valley. Although its history is uncertain, it was believed to have been built around the 12th century. At first it was a community centre, then a temple to the god Gorakhnath, and more recently, a gathering place for porters trolling for customers. Nearby is the Maju Deval, a Shiva temple with platform steps that are ideal for watching hawkers, rickshaw wallahs and souvenir sellers offering all sorts of services to credulous tourists. Other noteworthy sights include: the Great Bell which, when rung, is believed to ward off evil spirits; the Jaganath Temple, famed for its blush-inducing array of erotic carvings; the fearsome stone image of the six-armed Kala Bhairab; and the Taleju Temple, easily the most magnificent of the square's many temples - unfortunately, it's not open to the public; even the Nepalese are denied entrance and can only visit during the annual Dasain festival. Hanuman Dhoka (Old Royal Palace) The old royal palace is a part of Durbar Square, which remains the traditional heart of the old town and a spectacular legacy of traditional architecture. The king no longer lives here - the royal family moved to Narayanhiti more than a century ago - and the 1934 earthquake damaged the complex, but it remains a fascinating place to explore. The western part of the palace, overlooking Durbar Square, is home to an interesting museum that celebrates King Tribhuvan's successful putsch against the Ranas. Wander inside and you get an eerie insight into his life: lots of personal effects, extensive photos and newspaper clippings and magnificent furniture and knick-knackery.

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