City Kathmandu Travel

City Kathmandu Travel

Visas are available on arrival for citizens of most countries. In April of 2004 the cost is $30 for 60 days. There are no trains to Kathmandu and renting a car or motorbike without a driver is very difficult.
By air
Kathmandu's Tribhuvan International Airport (http://www.tiairport.com)' (KTM) airport is the largest, and only international, airport in Nepal. Most flights arrive via Delhi or Bangkok, with very few direct flights from outside of Asia.
By bus
The other option for arriving in Kathmandu include buses from India (usually Varanasi or Lucknow) and other parts of Nepal such as Chitwan National Park and the trekking hub of Pokhara. You can enter from Mahendranagar at the extreme East, but you need a visa before hand. Other options for entry into Nepal are limited.
Get Around

Map of central KathmanduThe first thing many visitors may notice about Kathmandu is the general lack of street names (except for major roads such as Tri Devi and Ring Road) and address numbers. In most cases directions are given relative to the nearest chowk or tole (an intersection or square, often with a market) or a noteworthy building such as a temple or restaurant. In the tourist district of Thamel, the Kathmandu Guest House and Hot Breads bakery are two main landmarks.
It is possible to get across the city by foot, but it is not always a pleasant walk and you may want to consider a rickshaw for anything more then wandering around a specific area. Rickshaws are motorised or bicycle driven. Negotiate on a price before you get in, if you can't agree, just look for another driver. Prices go up after dark and in less busy areas.
There are also buses and taxis for longer trips (see Kathmandu Valley for information on getting to Patan and Bakhtapur), but they are not usually used just for getting around town.
See
Swayambunath - the "Monkey Temple" great views over the city. 25 mins. walk from Thamel. Pay a fee to enter at the front steps or slip in free on the ramp on the south side. Bodhnath Stupa - the spiritual heart of vajrayana Buddhism in the city. The stupa is especially spectacular at night when adorned with candles. Remember to walk around it clockwise, spin the prayer wheels clockwise, with your right hand. Have tea on the roof of a tall restaurant beside it and enjoy the views. King's Palace- Gian fruit bats hanging from the tall trees and 20 foot-tall bamboo around the otherwise modern (and well secured) palace are a sight-- especially around sunset when they depart en masse.. Thamel Chowk - lots of restaurants and shops. Freak Street - Historic home of western hippies seeking enlightenment, but now just a few restaurants and hotels. Nasal Chowk Statues, temples and the Rana museum. Durbar Squares
The heart of Kathmandu this ancient square crowded with palaces and temples, including the current incarnation of the Kasthamandap or "Wooden house" that gives the city its name. The square has been in active use since the construction of a palace around 1000 AD.
Enter from Freak street side for free. Magical in the very early morning, Dubar Square can be an exhausting experience due to the overwhelming number of young men offering to be "guides." Be firm with saying "no" if you are not interested but realize that looking at a map, or even standing still for a moment will be an invitation to a dozen other would-be "helpers".
There are more than a dozen buildings and statues of note in this small areas. They include:
Taleju Temple One of the oldest temples in the square, this three-roofed temple with its pyramid shaped bases, is an example of the typical Newari architectural style. Ashok Binayak
Shiva Temple
Maju Deval
Narayan Temple
Shiva-Parvati Temple
Kumari Palace- home of "the Kumari", or living goddess, a young girl. South side of Durbar suare,
Bhagwati Temple
Saraswati Temple The Goddess of Knowledge and Learning
Krishna Temple
Sweta Bhairab Statue shown only during the Indra Jatra festival.
Kal Bhairab
Indrapur Temple
Vishnu temple
Mahendreswar Temple
Do
Kathmandu itself has limited activities for visitors beyond the amazing sightseeing and general experience of being there', but it is the starting point for numerous adventures in the rest of the country including trekking, rafting, jungle adventures, and more extreme sports.

Yoga
Healing Hands Center [1] (http://www.ancientmassage.com/index.html). Classes in yoga, massage, meditation. Day, week, and month long courses. Satyananda Yoga Centre [2] (http://faculty.washington.edu/swittet/Satyananda/) Group and individual courses. Yoga Camps. Festivals

Festival just outside KathmanduKathmandu and Dubar Square is the center for many of Nepal's festivals. Note that many businesses are closed for all of these holidays-- and often a few days before and after. Dasain in particular tend to shut down much of the city for October.
Dewali, Festival of Lights A five day festival which takes place each year on the fifteenth day of Kartika ( around the end of October/start of November) celebrated by all Hindus with ritual house-cleaning, lanterns, candles, and fireworks. The Nepali version tends to be more picturesque and less explosive (literally) than those celebrated in India. Holi is celebrated in March with splashes of water and colored powder that is both good luck and very messy. Bikram New Year's (April) A day of pilgrimage's (often from Kathmandu to the holy Bungmati river that separates it from Patan) Teej, the most important women's festival, is celebrated in September with married women dressed in their red marriage saris visiting male relatives and unmarried women and girls staying up all nigh to celebrate and pray for their future husbands. Indra Jatra Harvest festival held in Kathmandu's Dubar Square for 8 days each September. The Goddess Kumari is paraded in her sacred chariot.
Buy
Silver Note that jewelers from Bangkok come to Kathmandu to buy wholesale silver with Indian-processed semiprecious gemstones. The wholesale price of silver is published on the front page of the "Himalayan" newspaper (1 tola= 11.6 gm) so buyers can get an idea of the metal cost of the piece, apart from the labor cost. Silver is almost invariably near the stamped "92.5%" sterling, as claimed. Clothing Kathmandu is a great place to shop for clothes. Flowing hippie gauzes, Monk's robes in saffrons and maroons, funky neon trancewear, dozens of elegant silks and 'suiting and shirting' are available in all qualities and prices. Tailors can be hired at reasonable fees and quality is high. Handwoven Nepali fabrics are $1-3/m and available in endless patterns and colors. Anything, from bags to mountaineering equipment to cocktail dresses can be made to order and tailored to perfection. The alleys around Indra Chowk, between Thamel and Durbar sq., have dozens of fabric shops and tailors, much more dedicated to customer satisfaction than the hurried and expensive shops in Thamel. Warning: If having clothes made to wear later at home, get measured BEFORE trekking, if you want them to fit when you return to your normal size! Cultural artifacts Be advised that there are a lot of counterfeits, sly salesmen, and plastics presented as wood. Most real antiques are illegal to export. Genuine antiquities may have been looted from temples. Patan, sister city of Kathmandu, is known for the quality of her bronzes. Read "Shopping for Buddhas" available in book stores, if you are. Pashminas These Cashmere-like scarves and shawls can be purchased for a fraction of the price of those in Europe or North America. Look for those produced by the Tibetan refugee camp just outside of Patan or other charitable organizations. Cameras A lot of people find Kathmandu a good place to buy a camera. There are shops in Thamel, and around New Road.
Books
Kathmandu is a great place to stock up or trade in reading material. Used bookstores cover everything from backpacker favorites to classics to local history and culture.
Pilgrims in Thamel (next to the Kathmandu Guest house) is the largest and most well established English language bookshop in Kathmandu. They have great sections on Buddhism (a whole room devoted to vajrayana), as well as an encyclopedic selection on books devoted to subjects on Nepal. Customers are invited to take an on-sale book into the restaurant for a free read. Tibet Book Store, Thamel (on the road leading in from the palace) - good selection of books on vajrayana and Tibet studies. Second Hand - The alleys of Thamel are full of second hand book shops. Check around for a good price, as they do vary immensely. Return read books for 50% buyback or store credit.
Coffee
Nepal is also a coffee producing country, though the people are famously tea drinkers. Most often coffee comes as a dishwater-colored cup of instant, however, good coffee IS available. The first thing to remember is that people who don't drink coffee don't understand coffee. When ordering, try ordering "Strong coffee", as opposed to just "Coffee", to minimise those dishwater blues. Places to look for ground coffee, either drip or espresso, are:
Just Juice and Shakes. Coffee drinks, espresso, Cappuccino, and juice and shakes, sweet rolls, etc., too. See 'Eat' below for location. Java. Everything you ever wanted in a coffee shop, great coffees, meals, deserts, newspapers, sofas, even a guitar on the wall that says, "Play me!" Meet the teenage elite of Kathmandu here. Upstairs, the last building on the left as you leave Thamel heading for the Royal Palace. Himalayan Java House Tri Devi Marg. Not just the coffee drinks, but the Western cafe food such as mini-pizzas and fruit scones will draw you off the busy street below to the white-tile and wrought-iron oasis.
Eat

One of Thamel's Many Rooftop CafesTraditional Tibetan dumplings, momos have been borrowed to become tourist tapas. Try them fried or steamed stuffed with buffalo, chicken, or veggies with a Tuborg or San Miguel beer. In a local place expect to pay 25 rs for a dozen momos, 45-65rs in a tourist place.
There are dozens of tourist restaurants clustered in the Thamel district serving emerying from Middle Eastern to Mexican food. Indian and Nepali dishes are always the best tasting-- and best priced. Don't hesitate to state your preference for spiciness. A good place to sample Korean food. Travelers who venture into smaller places are often rewarded with better prices and friendlier staff. Inspect your bill and count your change at the places frequented by short trip tourists.
Tashi Delek. Tibetan restaurant with extensive menu and good Mexican/ Italian dishes. Open late. Across the street from the postcard shop, near hotbreads corner. 100-300 Rs. Northfield Cafe. Basic pub grub and Nepali attempt at Mexican. Popular with English teachers and Peace Corps. A few doors up from Kathmandu Guest House. 100-300 Rs. Third Eye. Thai food in a nice building and outdoor garden. 250-500 Rs. Green Ice. Amazingly good Indian cuisine, Thamel Chowk upstairs with the green windows overlooking "Kukuri Crossroads". Just Juice and Shakes. Popular with Israelis and Longtimers. Great coffees and , yes, juices and shakes. Two eggs on toast: 20rs. 10m down the alley across the street from the music shop, near Pilgrim's bookstore curve. Everest Steak House. Traditional pre-or post-trekking feast: Massive steaks cooked just right, about 300rs will stuff you.
Outside Thamel
Yes, there is a whole world waiting outside Thamel!

Freak street has a few good eats, too, such as the Ganesh restaurant halfway along the street next to a small shrine. Angan (on the corner behind the King's statue roundabout) A great place to have sanitary ice cream, Nepali traditional sweets, or try out a delicious freshly prepared Masala Dosa (curry in a crisp savory crepe, 55-65rs.) or other South Indian food alongside Kathmandu's Bourgeoisie. Sweets in the front, Fastfood restaurant in the back. This is the heart of the Nepalis' upmarket shopping district, where New Road and Dharma Path meet. Walk west from here on the pedestrian street to Freak st., the outdoor craft market, the old 'Red Palace', and the many temples of Durbar square.
Drink

Butcher shop in KathmanduBeer and mixed drinks are available at almost every bar and restaurant. For a quick drink and cheap cultural experience try the local 'Nepali wine' (raksi) or 'Nepali Beer' (chang) neither of which taste anything like their namesakes. Ask for these at local places.
Sam's A cozy nook upstairs with years of wisdom or random song lyrics scrawled on the walls. The usual drinks and usual ex-pat crowd. Maya Cocktail Bar. 2-for-1 specials on mixed drinks at happy hour, 4-8pm in this friendly spot. Next to Star Hotel. Maya Pub. Laid back sports bar version of Cocktail Bar. Free popcorn and 2-for-1 happy hour drinks. Euro Rock. Pool hall and pub popular with Peace Corps volunteers and long time ex-pats. Jump Club. Locals and ex-pats as well as tourist crowd; one of the few dance clubs in Kathmandu. Fire Club. Another dance club, uninspired DJ or a two-year-old tape? Upstairs from the "Irish Pub" near Hotbreads corner. Tongues and Tales. Chilled, smoke-friendly cocktail bar with comfortable seating and good music. Upstairs, (look for the sign at the doorway) halfway downhill on the road between Hot Breads corner and Steak House street. A good place to hear about parties.
Sleep
Virtually all tourist accommodations are located in Thamel, near the Kathmandu Guesthouse. Upscale hotels tend to be a few blocks away on Tri Devi Marg near the Royal Palace. A few die-hard places still remain on Freak Street below Durbar Square. Prices can range from $1 - $350 for a double room.
Budget
The Star. Made famous among travellers and expats in the book "Escape from Kathmandu" but otherwise your basic budget accommodations. Double and single rooms with or without private bathrooms. Friendly staff. Mail drop for repeat/longterm clients. Gate locks around midnight. $2-$5. Cozy Corner. Just next door to the Star. A very basic double room with shared bathroom and cold shower. Safety deposit boxes at the front desk. No lock out time. $1-$5. Thorong Peak, Thamel. (+997 1 4253458).Rooms for 250 Rs. (Double) and up. You get much more than in other just houses for that price.
Mid-range

Kathmandu Guesthouse [3] (http://www.ktmgh.com/kgh/default.php), Thamel. (+977 1 4700 004, 4700 977 The original guesthouse now with rooms ranging from basic to almost-fancy. Restaurant and bar. The axis on the compass of Thamel, all other addresses are given in relation to this hotel. $17 and up. The Garuda. Private bathrooms, sheets, towels, etc. Some rooms with AC and balconies. Located near Kathmandu Guest House, Thamel. $10-$25 Shechen Guesthouse[4] (http://www.shechenguesthouse.com/index.html). (+977 1 4479009) in the grounds of Shechen Monastery in Boudha has clean and good quality rooms with private bathrooms for about US$15. The guesthouse also has garden with restaurant/coffee shop facilities, and is within a five minute walk of Bodhnath Stupa.
Splurge

Kathmandu Hyatt. Actually a few miles outside of town in Bodhnath. A lovely building in the traditional Newari style with swimming pool, spa, and several restaurants. $300 and up. Pick-up and drop off from airport or downtown. Hotel d'Annapurna. Four-star international hotel with all the amenities. Located on Durbar Marg. Yak and Yeti. A five star hotel located in a converted palace on Durbar Marg.
Get out

The Kathmandu Valley holds a number of nearby sites and cities for day-trips or overnights. Pokhara, 5-8 hours by bus, is the a pleasant little city on a lake (though quite overrun with backpackers). Many visitors stop here for a few days on the way to or from treks and rafting trips. Chitwan National Forest Jungle low-lands of western Nepal are a popular place for safaris, complete with Elephant rides, rhino and tiger spotting, and jungle walks.
Stay Safe
The US State department has issued a warning (http://travel.state.gov/travel/nepal_warning.html) discouraging all non-essential travel to Nepal due to an ongoing conflict between Maoist and the government. Visitors should avoid public demonstrations and register with their consulate on arrival. Following the news and government warnings is important, be sure to check on current road conditions before leaving Kathmandu.
While in Kathmandu, always keep an eye on belongings, violent crime is rare, but pickpockets are not. If your hotel room door doesn't have a good lock or safe windows, store valuables on your person or in a hotel safety deposit box at all times. As with any large city, avoid walking alone in unlit areas.

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